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by Samantha Shaw Mario Testino , V 59. The author points to a conflicted hegemony. Different images send different messages especially about women. “Gender and Hegemony in Fashion Magazines: Women’s Interpretations of Fashion Photographs” by Diana Crane “Gender and Hegemony in Fashion Magazines: Women’s Interpretations of Fashion Photographs” by Diana Crane was published in Volume 40, number 4 of The Sociological Quarterly in 1999. This article is a companion piece to a study that examined women’s relationships with the images presented in fashion magazines. Crane questions the validity of the assumption that fashion magazines encourage conformation and dissatisfaction among women through analyzing the data and responses of women who participated in the study, while acknowledging the various theories that exist connecting women’s self-worth and the images presented in fashion publications. Crane’s key question pertains to whether or not fashion theorists’ assumptions are accurate in...

by Katherine Hom See the recent history of fashion photography here . Steven Meisel, State of Emergency, Vogue Italia, 2006 “Doing Fashion Photography,” Erica Lennard Erica Lennard is a photographer born in New York in 1950. She has published 14 books and has worked with Perry Ellis, Vogue, Elle, Marie Claire, and Rolling Stone. She is also well known for her work photographing gardens. In this article Lennard’s reflections on her work reveal many of the ideas central to realism. When shooting models she looks to bring out a “personal quality” by being quiet and only directing their movements in an attempt to make them relax enough to be natural. She looks for a feeling of vulnerability. She prefers hair and makeup to be simple and unartificial and draws inspiration on how to pose models from real life, film, and paintings. Erica Lennard's photo for Perry Ellis in the 1980's Reflecting the blend of between art and photography that realism takes she states, “I consider my...

by Sara Johenning See the early history of fashion photography here . Steven Klein, Vogue Italia, 2008 Roland Barthes, “Fashion Photography” Roland Barthes was a French literary theorist, philosopher, critic, and semiotician of the 20 th century. Semiotics is the formal study of signs and symbols. Barthes was very interested in examining the relationship between cultural material, bourgeois society, and power – and found semiotics very useful in these interrogations. Barthes’ comprehensive roster of work includes writings on fashion, photography, and structuralism/ deconstructionism. “Fashion Photography” appeared as an appendix in Barthes’ 1967 work, The Fashion System . Barthes begins by confronting the problems with photographing a fashion garment. This garment is referred to as a signifier, i.e., the thing or object. However Fashion does not only attempt to photograph garments and objects, but it also aims to capture a certain world, mood, or feeling as well. This more gen...

The first ever comprehensive exhibition of Yves Saint Laurent is being presented at the Petit Palais in Paris March - August 2010. Read the Times review here and my take here . Yves Saint Laurent, 1983 & 1990

b y Nicole Schloss Emma Watson for Burberry, 2010 The Burberry Business Model: Creating an International Luxury Fashion Brand This article, written by Christopher M. Moore and Grete Birtwistle, was first published in the International Journal of Retail & Distribution Management, volume 32, issue 8 in 2004. Christopher M. Moore is a professor in the School of Management and Languages at Glasgow Caledonian University as well as the Director of the George Davies Centre for Retail Excellence. He received his PhD in international fashion retailing and branding, particularly with respect to fashion marketing. Grete Birtwistle is Head of the Division of Fashion, Marketing and Retail at the Caledonian Business School of Glasgow Caledonian University. She earned her PhD in store imaging and positioning for fashion retailers. She currently researches the ways of increasing the speed in the fashion supply chain and textile sustainability. Additionally, Moore and Birtwistle founded the British...