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b y Rahkua Verderosa-Ishakarah Swiss artist Sylvie Fleury, installation of shopping bags, 1990 "Magic Flute" - Theodor Adorno Theodor Ludwig Wiesengrun (later adopting maternal surname Adorno) (September 11, 1903-August 6, 1969) was one of the most important philosophical and social critics in Post-World-War II Germany. He examined Western philosophical tradition and radically critiqued modern Western society. Adorno belongs to the Frankfort School (a term delineated for several different institutions based in or around Frankfurt, Germany) of thinkers who re-engaged Marxist philosophy as it applied to the critique of modern capitalism. He focused on the application of these critiques to an "exchange society" in which fetishized commodity production is central to Western society's cultural aesthetic and value system. His theories are largely based on those of philosophers like Georg Hegel, Karl Marx, Immanuel Kant, and Sigmund Freud. "Life does not live....

by Ariane Ankarcrona This history summary below appears in full  here . Christy Turlington, Chloe, 2006 1391: Queen Isabella of Bavaria gives a life-size doll to Queen Ann of Bohemia to show clothes on a human form. Later called “model dolls,” they became popular gifts among aristocracy and are used as tools for designers. 1852: Wife of dressmaker Charles Worth sported his designs amongst Paris aristocracy Early 1900s: Lady Duff Gordon of Lucille's grooms young women. Models not received in polite society. Mannequins considered menials. 1924: New selection methods of models by nationality. Opening of first modeling agencies followed. Top models for Vogue, Irving Penn, 1947 Late 1940s: Dior’s New Look. Top 12 models all resemble this aesthetic eg. sophisticated, mid-thirties. 1950s: Chanel’s Total Look. Chanel uses herself and family members as models or young aristocrats styled on the designer’s looks and attitudes. The images featured are combined historic photos of the actua...

by Ariane Ankarcrona Caroline Trentini by Patrick Demarchelier, Vogue, September 2007 “Fashion Models as Ideal Embodiments of Normative Identity,” Patrícia Soley-Beltrand Patrícia Soley-Beltran began modeling and acting at age 17 in her native Spain. In 1989, after ten years in the industry, she stopped modeling to focus on her education. She currently lectures throughout Europe on a graduate, post-graduate and doctoral level in feminist theory, sociology of the body, and the sociology of style and fashion. Her article entitled “Fashion Models as Ideal Embodiments of Normative Identity” was published in 2006 in Trípodos, the journal of The Blanquerna School of Communication Studies in Barcelona, Spain, while she was a lecturer there. Models behind the scenes by Steven Mesiel, Vogue Italia, January 2009 With Soley-Beltran’s experience in the modeling world, she is able to present both a personal and scholarly examination of the iconic status of models today. Inevitably tied to this ico...