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By Nicolle D'Onofrio Paris Fashion Week A/W 2008-9: Maison Martin Margiela Context: 1998, Fashion Theory Textbook Author: Alison Gill; Current lecturer of visual communication design at University of Sydney with a PHD in "Wearing Clothes". Approach: Academic with a mix of Theoretical Point of View: Deconstruction Fashion, which should not be defined as a negative critique of the fashion industry, serves to change the discourse of fashion away from its established, seemingly intrinsic, codes. Terms: Deconstructionism: The "undoing" of fashion (see video examples) to create new pieces of "deconstructed" fashion. Le Destroy : Rebellion style of fashion Gill associates with deconstructionism. Facets of Le Destroy include anti-fashion, recession-zeitgeist, eco-fashion, and theoretical dress Anti-Fashion : Rebellious form of fashion used to negatively critique normalized fashion codes. Zeitgeist: literally "spirit of the times" Ontology: The br...

“If discourse must triumph over something, it is not over fantasies and hallucinations heavy with meaning and misinterpretation, but the shiny surface of non-sense and all the games that the latter renders possible.” Jean Baudrillard , Seduction. Spring 2011 The general consensus is that fashion, and its imagery focus on the superficial. Because fashion is presentation there is a legitimate interest in the surface, such as the surface treatments of fabrics by Proenza Schouler . But the question is how the surface appearances in fashion can be sites for the mediation of values and power. Fashion discourse and theory must triumph over this emphasis and dig into the deeper values expressed by the surface. The classic debate surrounding fashion imagery concerns the ways in which it is overpowering vs. empowering. Above the most common positions against fashion imagery and below the common positions in support of fashion imagery . The contrived dialectic is in reality a combination o...

By: Isabella Aballi Tamsin Blanchard examines the power behind the label and how the emerging role of graphic designers has become key for a fashion labels success and credibility. Blanchard explains how the label has become its own form of currency because of the social and economic importance is holds. Nowadays, fashion brands have come to rely on packaging and presentation to determine its worth as oppose to the actual product. In the last 20 years, the graphic designers that are in charge of creating the labels and the presentation have created the ability to attach status and power to labels and fashion industries. Fashion is no longer just clothes; now the fashion industry has many sectors that contribute to the popularization of the label. These graphic designers create fashion show invitations, ad campaigns, “look books, catalogues, press mail-outs, magazines, etc”—all of these elements contribute to the message attached to the label. Peter Saville is known for being the pione...

Brian Moeran discusses the effects celebrities have in our society by splitting the essay up into four different sections. A professor in the Department of Intercultural Communication and Management at Copenhagen Business School he is concerned about different social processes dealing with cultural production such as advertising, fashion and media. He uses a theoretical approach by examining the different shifts celebrities have created in the commercial industry. He believes culture and economy are connected and celebrities are the liaison for these industries as they deliver the perspective the company wants to appeal, to the consumers. Celebrities "The celebrities are the Names that need no further identification...Wherever they go, they are recognized, and moreover recognized with some excitement and awe," (Morean3). Celebrities first came about in New York City Cafes towards the end of the 20th century at the time where different classes of people intermingled. Or he sa...

The term “Haute Couture” is one that is tossed around quite often when discussing high-end fashion and clothing, but what exactly is it? The direct translation from French is “high sewing” or “high dressmaking” referring to the creation of exclusive custom fitted clothing. Haute couture is made to order for a specific customer, and it is usually made from high quality, expensive fabric, and hand sewn with extreme attention to detail with the use of time consuming, hand executed techniques that one must be highly trained in. Haute Couture made its debut more than a century ago in the middle years of the nineteenth century in Paris and the fashion world was in awe of the novelty and modernity of the Haute Couture Aesthetic. In the mid-nineteenth century, Englishman Charles Frederick Worth burst onto the Paris scene with a new philosophy of how clothes should be made. By creating branded fashion design, Worth created the very first Fashion House. After Worth, the trend of Haute Couture...

By: Valentina Franco Hermès is a major fashion company that prides itself on its heritage, craftsmanship and luxury. It started in 1837 as a harness shop in Paris for horses and carriages, and later expanded onto the production of saddles. By the 1900’s, Hermès started to create travel bags, handbags, belts, gloves, and other leather goods that resemble the products that are available today. Since its establishment by Thierry Hermès, the Hermès family has been in charge of the business, so far having six generations of Hermès heirs at the forefront of the company. The Hermès Family Directors through the Years Two of the most recognized Hermès products are the Kelly bag and the Birkin bag. The Kelly bag was introduced in 1935 as the “sac à dépêches” but it was made famous in 1956 by American actress and then Princess of Monaco, Grace Kelly when she used it to cover her pregnancy from the paparazzi. The Birkin bag was created in 1984 for English singer and actress Jane Birkin, after...

By Sophie Cheung The PPR Gucci Group, formerly known as Pinault-Printemps-Redoute, was founded in 1963 by Francois Pinault. Currently, the company is run by his son, Francois-Henri Pinault and specializes in the design, manufacture, and marketing of luxury goods. The Luxury group brands of PPR include:Gucci Bottega Veneta Yves Saint Laurent Balenciaga Alexander McQueen Boucheron Sergio Rossi Stella McCartney Puma (subsidiary brand) The company's power comes not only from its control over the creme de la crop of luxury brands, which has enabled it to dictate style to the upper echelons of society and the masses, but also from the company wealth and influential power of the Pinault family. A keyword search on sites such as Business of Fash ion and The New York Times shows PPR as having one of the foremost number of related articles with LVMH as a close industry rival. The search results for PPR are well up into the thousands, which show industry power as media attention circulates ...

by Angela Ghang Karl Lagerfeld is a celebrated renown couture designer who can bring style and shape to any design fitting a modern, classy and edgy look with eccentric colors. Born in 1938, one year before Coco Chanel retired from the Fashion House of Chanel, they say he was destined to take over the empire of Chanel. At a young age Lagerfeld moved to Paris and worked as a draftsman sketching costumes. In 1955 he won 1st place at the International Wool Association, where many designers and couture house took note of Lagerfelds design and style. In the 60s he worked close with the House of Fendi designing fur coats and in the 70s worked with the Fashion House of Chloe creating feminine and classic pieces along with perfume, "Chloe by Karl Lagerfeld" which became an instant hit worldwide. In 1978 he started to design at Chanel and quickly became the Creative Design Director of Chanel in 1983. He made it a big responsibility to transform Chanel into something extraordinary. He ...