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By Jenn Liu The costume for Lieutenant Jim Dangle, designed by Mary Ann Bozek, takes a modern day police uniform and plays with the traditional codes of a policeman’s outfit to alter the connotations that usually come with that symbol of authority. The Lieutenant still holds serious symbols of authority through adornments like his badge and his accessories belt that holds weapons like his gun, however, other aspects of his uniform are changed to reflect his character. The most obvious differentiation from a traditional uniform is his pants. Opposed to the usual long trouser, he wears extremely short and tight shorts that add a blatant comedic effect on his character as well as questions his sexuality more immediately than other the characters’ would be. His shirt also has subtle differences like his rolled up sleeves, the opened collar as opposed to a fully buttoned up collar that would otherwise give his character a more stern look, and also the blue flaps on his shirt pockets that ar...

by: Christine Lee DIY FASHION ( via ) Do-it-yourself is a term used to describe artistic efforts in which participants modify and/or create something, ranging from furniture to clothing. It is said to have emerged with the rise of the punk movement in the 1970’s, in which came substantial cultural, social, and political change. The movement lead to the rise of fanzines . Stephen Duncombe describes fanzines as “little publications filled with rantings of high weirdness and exploding with chaotic design”, where producers “privilege the ethic of DIY, do-it-yourself: make your own culture and stop consuming that which is made for you. ” ( via ) Another theory in which DIY emerged: DIY is also said to be linked to the Arts and Crafts movement of the 1900’s. This was an international design movement originated in England. This movement also spread to the United States and evolved as a “reaction against the impoverished state of the decorative arts and the conditions under which they were pr...

by Sofya Gladysheva Johnny Depp's costume in Tim Burton's Alice in Wonderland was designed by Colleen Atwood, a prominent costume designer who was won several Academy Awards, one of which was for her work on this film. The costume elaborates on the Victorian fashion code by using bright accessories and outlandish makeup. One can imagine that a hatter of those time could wear something of the sort, but it is the unruliness as well as the hair and makeup that speak to the craziness associated with the character. His contacts are bright yellow with pupils pointing in different direction. His hair is bright orange and sticking out everywhere. He has a pink handkerchief and a silly bow tie. Clearly, his appearance does not scream sanity. It is these details that point to the absurdity of his character. He has a cast on his thumb, there are various pins and needles in his hat, his hands are splotchy, and his fingernails a grimy yellow. Whereas the Disney version simply looks goofy o...

By Anne Grant In the fashion industry, the authoritative norm has long favored the regime and rule of designers and glossy magazine editors. However, over the past decade, the industry has shifted increasingly toward a web-based medium. The fashion blogosphere, wherein anyone with an internet connection has a voice, represents a mounting subculture primed to challenge the traditional modes of fashion media and mediation. Susie Khamis and Alex Munt posit that “influence and reach is no longer tied to top-level titles like Vogue, or earned through years of assistance and editing . . . Rather, (fashion bloggers) make their mark with voices that seem fresh and autonomous” (2-3). In short, the upsurge in number and influence of fashion bloggers has disrupted the hierarchy as previously seen in the fashion industry and, subsequently, revolutionized fashion media. In an act of self-preservation, the old regime has co-opted these new media strategies in an attempt to uphold its authority. Scot...

by Emily Mann In Wes Anderson’s film Rushmore, Jason Schwarzman plays Max Fischer, a tenacious and rebellious prep school student, raised by his working class father and struggling with the death of his mother. Max’s Rushmore Academy uniform, which was his costume for multiple scenes of the film, was designed by Karen Patch. It first and foremost instantly identifies Max as a student of the prestigious and affluent school, offering false implications of his family’s wealth and status in society. Max’s costume differs from those of the other students at Rushmore in that he wears every possible piece of adornment from pins on the lapel of his jacket to his perfectly matched maroon red beret. The costume corresponds with Max’s outwardly overachieving nature while simultaneously communicating his underlying social insecurities. By flaunting the school’s insignia and embracing (and embellishing) its posh image, Max gives off the perception of being wealthy and fitting in, when, in reality,...

- Barbara Leung Reading Summary: “Cinema and Haute Couture: Sabrina to Pretty Woman, Trop Belle pour Toi!, Prêt-à-Porter” View more presentations from Barbara Leung (Images can be found in the SlideShare presentation above, as well as brief recap) Published in 1997 by New York and London based company Routledge, “Cinema and Haute Couture: Sabrina to Pretty Woman, Trop Belle Pour Toi!, Prêt-à-Porter” is the first chapter in University of Warwick professor Stella Bruzzi’s book Undressing Cinema. Bruzzi currently holds the position of professor of film and television, and specializes in the research of fashion and costume, gender and identity in film, and documentary film and television. This chapter seeks to address the questions of exhibitionism and art (Bruzzi 8); the attempt to determine if clothes can and should perform a spectacular as opposed to a “subservient visual role in film” (Bruzzi 8), as well as if these costumes can and should remain functional intermediaries to narr...

By Sophie Cheung Chris Pine plays the young James T. Kirk in the 2009 movie rendition of the classic American science fiction series, Star Trek. In the beginning part of the movie, Kirk is portrayed as the extremely intelligent but cocky and rebellious bad boy. The character's personality is given further emphasis through this scene (pictured above), where he's wearing the iconic black motorcycle leather jacket while he's--almost typically--riding his motorcycle down a road in his hometown in Iowa. The leather jacket received its notoriety through American and British youth in the late 1950s and 60s as well as pop culture films such as Brad Pitt in Fight Club and John Travolta in Grease. Additionally, in real life, those who are often associated with wearing the leather jacket are typically people who are perceived as either tough or rebellious, or both: bikers, military aviators, rock stars, punks, and police. They wear the leather jackets either for protection or intimid...

by Zo-Ee Chee The costume of padawan (Jedi in training) Luke Skywalker was designed by John Mollo to reflect the principles of a knight of the Jedi Order. Also responsible for the iconic Darth Vader costume, Mollo crafted Skywalker's costume based on Japanese Gi (the standard karate uniform) and traditional Japanese clothing. These costumes were intended to reflect the outlook and Zen leanings of the Jedi Order who prefer resolution over conflict and violence, integrity and truth. Here, Skywalker's clothing is instead utilitarian, much like a Japanese peasant's from the late 19th century and allows for freedom of movement (running or fighting, whichever the case might be).The color is also significant as white connotes purity and goodness: an intentional polar opposite to Darth Vader's all black and militaristic costume. Here, power is communicated through an opposition to fashion . The look is relatively timeless, though rooted in a specific culture. Mollo rejected any...

by: Shireen Cohen The Aviator tells the story of troubled film producer and aviator Howard Hughes mostly between the years 1920-1940. Part of the film focuses on the many romances of Hughes, which includes Hollywood magnates Katharine Hepburn, Ava Gardner and Jean Harlow. All three women were played in the movie, by current Hollywood magnates Cate Blanchett, Kate Beckinsale and Gwen Stefani, respectively. Cate Blanchett, who was nominated for Best Actress for her role, played the part of fashion icon Katharine Hepburn. Hepburn was credited for breaking the fashion dress code for women and instituting men's trousers are part of the dress code. Here, the actress is portrayed by Blanchett at a formal affair wearing a long, golden gown. The above image is a still on set of Kate Beckinsale playing famed American actress Ava Gardner. Here, Beckinsale wears a long colored gown with long satin red gloves and a fur shawl. In the above image, Gwen Stefani, playing "blonde bombshell...

by Tamara Tucci Anna Wyckoff is a costume designer and illustrator who has worked on the films Fat Albert (2004), Chasing Papi (2003), and The Yellow Wallpaper (2011). She is a member of the Costume Designers Guild and she currently contributes several articles to the Guild website in which she analyzes the role of costume design in films and the success of certain costume designers in the Guild. The Costume Designers Guild is an alliance between Costume Designers, Assistant Costume Designers, and Costume Illustrators in television shows, films and commercials. Since 1953, the Guild has been protecting the economic status and promoting the craft of costume design. Anna Wyckoff and fellow costume designer, Salvador Perez In her article, The Relationship Between Costume and Fashion Design (2010), Wyckoff seeks to define fashion and costume design as separate entities that converge. Costume is, by definition, “a set of clothes in a style typical of a particular country or historical peri...

By: Angela Gahng King's Speech is about King George VI of Britain overcoming his speech imperative struggle. King George VI is played by Colin Firth who is thrown into power after his brother, George gives up his throne as the king. Bertie, King Geroge VI believes he is unfit for the role because of his speech problem. The story is all about the struggle to overcome his stammered speech. It was interesting to see that his title and attire that went along with his role gave the character so much power and control. If worn any basic suite or jacket he could easily blend in with the crowd in Britain. Through his formal general suite that clearly associated him as a royal hier, gave him presences and attention. If an ordinary citizen had a speech imperative problem he or she back in the days would have had trouble being taken serious. But through Bertie's title and royal appearance he is respected in the crowd. When he is presented to the general public he comes out always dressed ...

by Tamara Tucci The film Grey Gardens by brothers Albert and David Maysles was a documentary about Big Edie and Little Edie Beale, who were relatives of Jackie Kennedy and well-known for being eccentric recluses. Once incredibly wealthy, when Big Edie’s husband Phelan divorced her, he left his ex-wife and daughter penniless. The documentary bares it all: the squalor of their lives and their mental peculiarities. The mother and daughter live together in a crumbling house that is infested with fleas, stuffed with garbage, and without running water. This photo of Little Edie is from a scene in the film and was also used as the movie poster to promote Grey Gardens. I think her ensemble in this photo perfectly captures her character; she is a woman who was once wealthy and elegant, but now she lives in destitution. We see flourishes of her old wealth—the fur coat, the slash of red lipstick, the head scarf which shields her scalp (she has lost her hair from a stress disorder and/or malnutrit...

By Bianca Murillo In Black Swan Natalie Portman plays psychologically troubled ballerina, Nina, who is chosen as the lead for a New York City presentation of Swan Lake. This black swan costume, designed by the Mulleavy sisters of Rodarte , conveys Nina's personality and inner struggle. The combination of heavy eye make up, paint on her arms and the dark feathery ensemble all add to the illusion of swan- ness . When you look at her in this outfit you really do see a black swan before you. This dark image coupled with the red eyes result in an accurate depiction of Nina's psychologically troubled character and the duality of her personality. The pink tights maintain the sense of innocence that Natalie Portman herself adds to the character of Nina who is infantilized by her mother throughout the movie. I feel that the tiara itself is also a reflection of this innocence, reminiscent of Nina's girly pink room, music boxes and her mother's lullabys . This innocence is ...