Madras Has a Moment

Going for Baroque

I have a soft spot for Madras. Just thinking about the dark green and navy plaid skirt I owned in the early '60s reminds me of undergraduate years in art school and working summers on Cape Cod. Back then wearing Madras as an art student would not have been considered ironic. And I worked hard in Provincetown to buy the hand-crafted leather sandals worn with it. I remember that skirt like yesterday. I'm not sure I ever washed it.

The way we wore it

The immediate reference to Madras is preppy America circa 1960, but it's been around far longer. From first Dutch and then English traders to India in the 17th century, Madras first  arrived in America as a donation to the present Yale University in 1718. Sears offered a madras shirt to American consumers in its 1897 catalog.

Mad Man wearing Madras

Authentic Madras must be woven in and around Chennai (formerly Madras), India. It must be handwoven with the same pattern on both sides. The nature of the fiber makes for tiny bumps known as slubs. It's rare for Madras not to be woven in plaids, but there are stripes and solids. Another popular style of Madras is patched Madras, small squares of fabric stitched together before the garment is cut. That has always been my favorite—a veritable Whitman's Sampler of color and chaos. Then there is bleeding Madras, which would run like the devil when washed. The payoff would result over time in very faded Madras.

Thom Browne Fall 2018

Brooks Brothers and Ralph Lauren always have some Madras in their collections. J Crew is a fan. And a man in Madras still makes my heart go pitter-pat.

So while the popularity of Madras waxes and wanes, it's never really "out". And sometimes it's very "in". On Thursday Uniqlo is unveiling its collaboration with JW Anderson (thanks to D.O. for the heads-up), featuring two pieces of Madras in a blouse and long wrap skirt. They are just enough to give the collection some preppy authenticity, but not enough Madras for me.

Uniqlo $29.90

Uniqlo, $49.90

May we have some more please?

NOTE: A reliable source tells me that the Madras at UNIQLO is actually plaid seersucker. That means someone else needs to bring back Madras, and I need to post a love letter to seersucker!
MB