The Itsy-Bitsy Bikini Scandal

The $2.50 Ferrarini (left) vs. the $285 Irgit

 
How many of us have seen an interesting crafted accessory or apparel item and thought "I could do that"? I have. If I'm able to recreate something I may even have had dreams of glory: This will make my fortune!

I've made necklaces of wrapped tubing or shredded strips of fabric, bracelets from safety pins and heart-shaped brooches from buttons. I made vests from antique pennants and "portraits" from paint chips. Not one idea was 100% original but 100% inspired by something seen somewhere. After the third or fourth laborious attempt the creations usually found themselves a cozy home in the back of a closet.

Probably a good idea I was not successful, though I doubt I would ever have the hubris to take on Victoria's Secret over copyright infringement of my stolen idea. This is the gist of "The Itsy-Bitsy, Teenie-Weenie, Very Litigious Bikini" in today's New York Times Business section. Read the full piece here:

https://www.nytimes.com/2018/12/20/business/kiini-bikini-lawsuit-ipek-irgit-solange-ferrarini.html 

This is not a part of the paper I usually notice, but who could resist their photo of the two bikini tops seen above? In a nutshell, Ipek Irgit, a 34-year-old New Yorker originally from Turkey, was trying to make her way as a "style influencer" but having a hard time making a living doing it. On a vacation trip to Brazil in 2012 (I know—impoverished but on vacation in Rio) she purchased a colorful, hand-crocheted 2-piece bikini in the beach town of Trancoso for about $2.50.

Ipek Irgirt

What separates this bikini from the usual crocheted bikini is the use of elastic threaded through the crochet to give added (and necessary) support. Following positive reaction to the newly christened "Kiini" on the beaches of the Hamptons, Ipek decided to go into production. She asked a designer friend with connections in China to copy it and have it manufactured.

The bikinis were a hit. Ipek turned an item costing $29 to produce into a $285 "high end resort wear brand, designed by Ipek Irgit" (quoted from the website). After a modest start, the Kiini took off following an appearance on model Dree Hemingway in an Instagram feed. All the usual suspects came next—websites, magazines, exclusive boutiques, etc.—as did the copycats.

And here is where Ipek Irgit may have lost perspective. She coyprighted the design and decided to sue Victoria's Secret for their similar style. This was settled in Ipek's favor for an undisclosed amount.

The original in its creator's hands

Meanwhile—and here is where things get really interesting—the real designer back in Brazil came forward. Maria Solange Ferrarini, a 61-year-old Brazilian artist of modest means created and has been hand crocheting the originial bikinis since 1998. She sells them herself on the beach at Trancoso. 

Maria selling her suits on the beach

One of the copycats, a brand called PilyQ, started selling simiar suits to Neiman Marcus but managed to strike a licensing deal with the creator, Maria Ferrarini. When Ipek Irgirt got wind of this she decided to sue Neiman Marcus to stop selling a suit in violation of her copyrighted design. Somewhere along the line Ipek lost sight of the fact that she had in fact stolen that design and was now essentially suing the suit's creator. Too many suits and lawsuits in one paragraph!

This is still in litigation. Ipek seems to be tripping over herself in half-truths. There are emails to support the facts and Maria's handmade tag inside the bikini Ipek asked her friend to copy.  Ipek has expanded the styles, but the itsy-bitsy crocheted bikini is still front-and-center of the Kiini line.

The lessons here are many and obvious. The fact that you will never catch me in a crocheted bikini is beside the point.